HELLFEST – THE GREATEST METAL FESTIVAL OF THEM ALL?

Words and pictures by Neil Jones

Approaching their 2023 Festival, the team at French metal festival Hellfest decided, as they do each year, to make a few tweaks and improvements to the site. One such change was the need to improve their merchandise stalls, as they had become so popular over the years.

Instead of simply building a larger version of the old stall, the team rearranged an entire area of the festival site, moving a whole stage to a new area, and built in its place an entire, full-size temple, complete with a Baphomet overlooking the queuing crowds. Quite the demonic spectacle.

In any other festival, this would be the most Instagramable shot of the event. For Hellfest, it was just one of hundreds, and crucially yet another example of a event that has changed the rules when it comes to the modern-day metal festival. Ladies and gentlemen, this is Hellfest and this is quite simply, how they do things.

As the multiple fireworks (literally) filled the sky over the small village of Clisson on Sunday 18 June 2023, they brought to a close the latest edition of Hellfest, the event that has put the beautiful sleepy village in Western France on the map since 2006 as a mecca for lovers of rock and metal the world over.

As well as signifying the end of the festival though, the sheer scale of the pyrotechnics on display, also illustrated something that is quite apparent about the event – that there are ways that regular metal festivals do things, and then, there is ‘the Hellfest way’. Even the closing fireworks creating a level of mouth-agape incredulity which is consistent from the moment of arrival at the event.

And the first indication that things are done differently is even pre-arrival experience. Touching down at Nantes airport, as most UK travellers will do, fans are greeted by huge signs welcoming back ‘Hellbangers’ and even a 20 ft Hellfest guitar situated directly outside by the airport’s taxi rank. You certainly don’t see that at East Midlands airport. You may be an hour away from the site, but your Hellfest has already started.

As well as being a very cool arrival experience for the international traveller though, it is also the first clue about what newcomers can expect. In short, that the festival, and indeed, the wider French community whole heartedly embrace the event. These guys care about the end-to-end experience. They want you to feel part of their world and from the very minute you arrive.

‘Experience’ is a key word when considering Hellfest. Visit most rock and metal festivals in the UK or Europe, and they all tend to work to a broad template. A big mainstage, or two. Some smaller stages in tents. Some food stalls. Some experiential (usually sponsor-led) areas. Some killer bands of ages and genres. A ‘village’ of stalls and shops. Campsites. So far so typical. And that is not a criticism. Staging events on this scale is a massive undertaking and that description comes with horns firmly aloft when being used.

Hellfest does the same too. So, what, therefore makes it so different as to warrant a heading suggesting is arguably the greatest of them all? The answer, certainly to this writer, is three key things – the experience, the culture and, crucially, the execution.

Firstly, the event is much more than just a simple rock and metal festival. It is also an evolving art project – the creation of a dystopian world that grows and evolves each year leaving you feeling that from the minute that you enter the site (through a 100 ft high amplifier of course!) that you have immersed yourself into something that can best be described as a Heavy Metal Disneyland. You have left the real world, you exist now in Hellfest.

Having a permanent year-round site and a partnership with local village, Clisson, undeniably gives Hellfest a distinct advantage over other festivals. Some of the art projects, for example the jaw-droppingly impressive statue and shrine to Lemmy, remain in situ all year round. Stalls that, for four days each July spout flames high into the air, cleverly fold away into cargo containers, metal plates depicting the incredible line ups of previous year remain like heavy metal manhole covers for fans to come and see whenever they please.

But regardless of this site advantage, there is an undeniable creative vision that is at the heart of the whole concept, and which is executed brilliantly by a team whose only limitation is budget and their own imaginations.

The (heavy metal) devil though is also in the detail. To create the ambience of a fantasy heavy metal world, Hellfest’s attention to detail is simply second to none. Why use miles of boring looking ‘Heres’ fencing like most festivals, when you can use rusted, Mad Max style fencing with the ubiquitous ‘H’ logo patterned throughout. Why have a few marquees and picket fencing for your VIP/Guest bar, when you can have a cathedral of bones complete with a monument of faceless ghouls sat atop a blood fountain dripping blood?  Why have a ‘village’ of stalls when you can literally recreate a Camden-esque style town square of shops, complete with additional music stage.

Hell (no pun intended), even the local supermarket get in on the act with bands playing in the car park, metal paraphernalia throughout the store and staff in the event’s T shirts giving the devil horns at every opportunity.

Hellfest is a different world. It’s Mad Max with killer music. A heavy metal Disneyland with your favourite bands instead of Mickey and Minnie. And an other-worldly art project worthy of the Turner Prize.  And that is before we’ve even mentioned the eye-wateringly amazing line ups. In short, ALL your favourite bands will be playing. Most likely on the same day. If you haven’t been. Beg, steal and borrow for a ticket.

Is Hellfest the greatest festival of them all? Well….

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